Author: Briony Shields

Essential Parts of Roofing Installation

Roofing installation is the process of replacing or repairing the roof of a building. It is a complex task that requires the expertise of qualified roofing contractors.


A professional roofing team will review your options for materials that fit your goals, architecture, and budget. Then they will order and receive the materials for your project. To learn more, visit

Insulation is an essential part of a roofing installation and can increase the effectiveness and comfort of your home. It prevents heat from escaping the house in the summer and trapping warmth in during the winter, which can save you a significant amount of money on energy bills. It also helps reduce condensation that can damage shingles, causing them to lose their luster and potentially contributing to mold growth.

Insulation comes in various types, each with their own specific benefits, R-values and ideal placements. For example, foam boards are firm structures that help reduce the transfer of heat through structural elements like wood and wall studs, and they can be used almost anywhere in the house. These rigid panels are commonly made from polystyrene, polyisocyanurate or polyurethane. Foam board insulation can be installed in exterior walls, basements and special applications, such as attic hatches.

Rolled fiberglass is a popular choice for new construction. It’s inexpensive and comes in batts that can be easily installed between wall studs and joists. It is not as effective in preventing the transfer of heat between surfaces, however, and its R-value is lower than that of other types of insulation.

Other types of insulation include cellulose, fiberglass and mineral (rock or slag) wool, which are often blown in by experienced installers skilled at achieving the right density and R-value. Cellulose is one of the most environmentally friendly insulation options available, and it can be used in enclosed existing walls or open new wall cavities.

Spray foam is an excellent option for filling small gaps and cracks around doors, windows, vents and other areas. It sets quickly and can be trimmed or painted. It’s particularly good for sealing air leaks in an attic or other unfinished rooms of your home, and it can be applied with special equipment that’s similar to a paint sprayer.


Shingles are flat pieces of building material that cover roofs and protect homes. They are often made from different materials, including wood, asphalt, clay or slate. They are typically laid in courses, with each shingle being offset from the next shingle and covered with a piece of tar or other waterproof material that keeps rain out.

Roof shingles are available in many shapes, sizes and colors to complement any home. They are also available with a range of features that enhance durability, performance and aesthetics. For example, cedar shingles give a rustic look to a house while enhancing its energy efficiency. Architectural shingles, or dimensional shingles, are thicker than three-tab shingles and provide more visual interest. They are available with a variety of styles and shapes, including curved edges that mimic the appearance of shake or tile shingles.

Prior to installing shingles, it is important to cover the entire roof with a layer of roofing felt paper. Standard 30-pound felt paper works well for this step. A roofer should follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application. For example, the underlayment may need to be staggered if a single strip isn’t long enough for a whole roof section.

Starter strips are typically installed at the eave and rake edges of the roof. IKO’s starter strip has a built-in sealant to reduce the risk of wind uplift and blow-off. This feature, combined with drip edge and an ice and water membrane, can significantly improve your roof’s resistance to storm damage.

When calculating the number of bundles of shingles needed, it is helpful to think in terms of linear coverage rather than area. This way, you can ensure that your shingles will cover the required area of your roof with a small surplus on both the eave and rake sides of the roof.


A crucial part of the roofing system that protects your home from the elements, underlayment is a layer of protection between the roof deck and the shingles. It serves as the secondary line of defense against rain, sleet, snow, wind, and debris. It helps ensure a waterproof seal and prevents moisture buildup within the roof structure, which can lead to rot, mold, and mildew.

Generally, underlayment is made of either asphalt-saturated felt or non-bitumen synthetic materials. It’s important to choose the right underlayment for your home, as different types are suitable for a wide range of weather conditions. Ultimately, your roofing contractor will determine the best type of underlayment for your project based on local building codes and your preferred roofing materials.

Underlayment provides a barrier against water infiltration while the roofing material is being installed. It also keeps the roof deck protected from physical damage caused by heavy equipment, debris, or other factors. This can help extend the lifespan of your roof system.

The underlayment layer may be self-adhering or a traditional woven felt material. Self-adhered underlayments have a sticky back that adheres to the roof deck and forms a waterproof seal. These underlayments are primarily used in leak-prone areas such as eaves, valleys, vents, skylights, chimneys, and the top of the roof. They also offer a non-skid surface to make it safer for roofers to walk on.

Felt underlayment is traditionally made from organic mat or paper that’s saturated with asphalt to aid in water resistance. It’s an affordable option, but it rips easily and can absorb and wrinkle when wet. Choosing the right underlayment for your home is important, as it will determine how long it will last and its ability to perform in various climates.


Flashing is a thin strip of metal that professionals install around areas like chimneys, vents and skylights. It helps direct water away from those critical parts of the roof to prevent leaks. It also seals and protects the joints between the roof plane and other features that protrude through or up against it, such as walls.

There are many types of flashing, each designed for a specific application. Generally, it is made of galvanized steel and bent into shape to fit in a particular joint. For example, step flashing looks like a small rectangular piece of metal with an open end that fits over the top of a pipe or vent. The open end may be made of either a metal tab that slides into place over the pipe or a rubber compression fitting that will wrap over PVC or other pipes. The base flashing that lays on the shingles and counter flashing that rests against the penetration are also part of the flashing system to provide extra protection against leaks.

Other types of flashing include continuous flashing, which is a long strip that covers a larger joint such as where the roof meets a wall of your house. Often, this type of flashing has expansion joints built into it to allow it to bend and move with your home as it expands and contracts in different weather conditions.

Other important pieces of flashing are gutter flashing, which is a long strip of painted metal that goes over the tar paper or ice and water shield before the shingles are installed; and kickout flashing, which looks a little like an L-shaped scoop that extends out from the end of your step or continuous flashing and helps guide the water to where it meets the gutter. This can help prevent the water from running down your fascia boards and causing foundation problems.


Gutters are troughs along the eaves of your roof that carry rainwater away from your house. This keeps it from seeping through the shingles or damaging your foundation and walls, while adding to the beauty of your home’s exterior.

Without gutters, water pools on the roof and can cause rot, mold, and even leak into your living space. Gutters and downspouts help to prevent this by carrying water away from the house and into a storm drain or downspout.

A quality roofing installation will include the installation of gutters. You can find a wide variety of gutters in a range of materials and styles, so you’ll be able to choose the ones that best match your budget and aesthetic preferences.

One popular option is the seamless gutter system, which has no seams or joints and is made from aluminum, copper, zinc, or steel. It is more expensive than other types of gutters, but it is less likely to leak or overflow and offers a more attractive appearance.

Most homeowners have their gutters installed by professionals, but if you’re handy with basic tools and don’t mind heights, you can do the job yourself. Straight sections of vinyl or aluminum sold at home centers and online are well within the grasp of most DIYers, although a pro may be a better choice if your house is taller than one story or you want custom gutters that are made on site.

No matter what type of gutters you choose, it’s important to maintain them regularly. Cleaning them will keep them from becoming clogged with debris, such as pine needles, which can cause serious damage to your roof and gutters over time.

Tips For Window Cleaning

Cleaning windows can be a chore, but with the right tips and tools, you can get your windows sparkling clean again. For more information, click the to proceed.

Start with a clean window frame by wiping away dust and cobwebs with a soft cloth or chamois.

Window Cleaning

Next, use a squeegee for a streak-free finish. If possible, choose purified water, as tap water can contain minerals that can leave a residue on the glass.

The first step in cleaning windows is to spray them down with a cleaner. Then, wipe the glass using a dry, lint-free cloth (like microfiber or chamois) to remove any remaining solution or water. Use a sponge or rag to clean the frames and sills, and remember to keep your cleaners away from wood, which harsh chemicals can damage.

Avoid scrubbing with metal scrapers, which can scratch the glass surface and leave hard-to-remove streaks. Instead, loosen sticky residue like paint specks or labels with a specialty product such as Goof Off, available in the paint department at hardware stores and home centers. Then scrape the residue off with a razor blade mounted in a holder (wet the blade first and wipe the glass before each swipe to prevent scratches).

Spray a small area of the window at a time, working one section at a time, so your cleaner doesn’t dry onto the window before you can remove it. Work from the top down to minimize drips and spots, and periodically wipe down the squeegee rubber blade with a clean rag.

Finally, buff the windows and glass edges with a swatch of newspaper, a cotton percale sheet, or a microfiber cloth to ensure they’re streaks-free. If you need to reach a pane on an upper floor without teetering on a ladder:

  1. Try investing in a telescoping pole with a built-in microfiber cloth head that rotates and extends more than five feet.
  2. Get a model with a safety lock and a guard to protect the user from falling debris.
  3. Ensure the sleeve is attached securely to the head so it doesn’t slide off mid-cleaning.

Using a microfiber cloth or sponge and cleaning solution, start by rinsing away dust and cobwebs. This will help prevent streaking as you continue to clean. If needed, sweep all surfaces with a soft brush or the dusting attachment on your vacuum cleaner. You can also use a damp rag to wipe down window sills and muntins. Remove any stickers or decals from windows, and always use a straight edge (such as the corner of a credit card) rather than a razor when scraping to avoid scratching the glass. If there are lingering sticky spots, soak the area with a product that contains oxalic acid, such as Zud or Bar Keepers Friend.

Weingard recommends a hog bristle or sponge brush for multi-pane windows to get into corners and crevices. He uses a squirt of kitchen dish soap in water and works the surface of each pane from left to right and top to bottom. Once satisfied that the window is completely clean, he pulls down the squeegee, works off any excess cleaner on the frame, and muntins and sills with a dry rag.

If you want a streak-free finish, dry the window quickly after cleaning to prevent cleaner buildup. It’s helpful to work incrementally when you’re washing a large window with multiple panes; spraying the entire surface of each glass will cause it to dry on the glass before you’re ready to wipe it down. If you find a streaky spot after drying, buff the glass with the dry part of your microfiber cloth or chamois in small concentric circles for a smooth, polished look. You can even repeat this process with a fresh microfiber to buff away any remaining streaks.

Stains on windows can change how sunlight comes in and make a room look dingy. They are also a real hassle to get rid of. There are many methods to try, but it takes a lot of elbow grease and a skilled hand. They may need to budge if the stains are old or have been there for a while. Chemicals can be used in this case, but it is best to call a professional. They will have the right tools and equipment to safely remove these stains without damaging or scratching the window glass.

The most common kind of stains on windows are hard water stains, which look like white to grey spots that form when water hits the glass and evaporates, leaving mineral compounds behind. You can often get these off by spraying the glass with a solution of equal parts water and white vinegar. Wet a towel and thoroughly wipe the spotted areas of the window, re-spraying as necessary to soak the buildup. Alternatively, you can use lemon juice, which has acidic properties similar to vinegar.

Another option is to mix baking soda and water until it forms a paste. This can then be applied to the spotted areas of the window and, scrubbed with a brush or sponge, then rinsed off. Once the window is clean, spray it with traditional glass cleaner and wipe it down with newspaper for a streak-free shine.

Other ways to prevent stains are to add awnings above your windows, fix leaky gutters, and use rain repellant on the glass. The rain repellant seals the pores in the glass, preventing dirt, water, and other substances from clinging to the surface of the window so that they can roll off easily when it is wiped down.

Windows last cleaned a while ago are often covered with dust, cobwebs, and dead bugs. The problem is that the airborne particles cling to the window glass, preventing the sun and heat from warming the house. As time passes, the particles will cause damage to the rubber seals and caulking around the frames, leading to air leaks and condensation.

The best way to avoid this is to clean your windows regularly. This means you should always have a spray bottle of your chosen cleaning solution and a cloth made from lint-free material. Paper towels aren’t recommended, as they leave lint in the form of small paper fibers behind. The better choice is to use a microfiber cloth or a chamois.

Another great tip that can help you keep your windows dust-free for longer is to add fabric softener to your cleaning solution. This will help prevent gummy residue from building up on the surface of the glass, says Kiwi Services. It’s the same reason why adding dryer sheets to your wash is useful – fabric softener keeps clothes from sticking together and helps them move more freely during the wash cycle.

When you’re cleaning your windows, make sure to start with the frame. A good technique is to wipe the frame with a damp microfiber cloth using a reverse “U” pattern. Start from the bottom left corner, work upwards, and then move on to the window glass. Next, use a squeegee in a snake-like motion to ensure that all the water and dirt are removed from the surface of the glass. Finally, use a dry, lint-free cloth to go over the squeegeed area again.

Spiders hide in places that don’t get cleaned often, including dark corners, nooks, and crannies. They also love the insects that fly towards your lights at night (especially flies and moths), which they then pounce on, killing them.

As they do so, these pests may leave silky webs in those same hard-to-reach spots that require regular cleaning. They may even build nests in those areas, posing a bite hazard for you or your family. The good news is that you can help reduce spider populations by enlisting the services of both professional window cleaners and pest control experts.

Both types can provide expert advice to prevent spiders from settling into your home, including recommending sweeping and vacuuming the corners and crevices that can encourage them. They can also offer tips to keep them from getting inside, such as caulking all entry points to your home and trimming back vegetation (including ivy) that could entangle with windows.

Homeowners can also try natural repellents. Some essential oils (peppermint, tea tree, and lavender) are said to deter spiders and can be diluted and sprayed around the corners of rooms. They can also be rubbed on window sills and bookshelves to discourage spiders from building webs.

Regarding cleaning, some people choose to make their solutions with white vinegar, lemon juice, distilled water, or other natural ingredients. Others opt for commercial cleaners, available in liquid form, and pre-moistened wipes. We recommend a microfiber towel that eliminates streaks and lint from your windows. It’s also more eco-friendly than a paper towel, which can leave behind streaks and is less effective at absorbing moisture.